No Place Like Rao’s

A legal tussle between co-owners (and cousins) Frank Pellegrino Sr. and Ron Straci has brought storm clouds to Rao’s, the fabled Harlem family restaurant where many would love to eat and very few can get a table. But as the place turns 120, its patina–equal parts garlic and glamor–endures, while Pellegrino’s son, Frank junior, has taken the Rao’s experience to Las Vegas and L.A.
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